Tanchoi Silk vs Brocade , Banarasi Weave Guide | Choubey Silk

Most buyers know Banarasi brocade for its heavy gold zari work, but few have heard of Tanchoi , a weave that achieves intricate patterns using only coloured silk yarns, with little or no zari at all. Originally brought to Varanasi from China via Surat weavers in the 19th century, Tanchoi is woven on the same jacquard looms as brocade, but the pattern is created purely through warp and weft colour interplay rather than metallic thread. The result is a fabric that’s lighter, smoother, and subtly luxurious , ideal for buyers who want the richness of Banarasi weaving without the weight or shine of a full zari brocade. Motifs are usually small, repetitive florals or paisleys, giving Tanchoi a refined, almost printed look that’s deceptively complex to produce. For menswear, Tanchoi silk works beautifully in bandhgalas, lightweight sherwanis, and indo-western jackets meant for daytime functions, where heavy brocade can feel overdressed. It also drapes well, making it a strong choice for designers experimenting with structured silhouettes. At Choubey Silk, our Tanchoi range is handwoven by artisans who’ve inherited this technique across generations. Because it requires precise tension control on the loom, Tanchoi is harder to mass-produce, which keeps genuine pieces rare even within Varanasi’s own market. If you’re a designer or boutique owner looking to diversify beyond standard brocade and jacquard, Tanchoi silk offers a point of differentiation , heritage weaving with a contemporary, understated finish. Internal link suggestions: Jacquard Fabric page, Sartan Brocade Silk page, About Choubey Silk