Rangkat Brocade Fabric , Varanasi’s Rare Multi-Colour Weave

Among Varanasi’s many specialised weaves, Rangkat brocade stands out as one of the most technically demanding and visually striking. The name comes from “rang” (colour) and “kat,” referring to the practice of dyeing warp threads in multiple shades before weaving even begins. Unlike standard brocade, where the base colour stays constant, Rangkat fabric shifts between two or more distinct colour zones across the same piece, separated by sharp, deliberate colour blocks. Achieving this requires the weaver to change both warp and weft repeatedly during production, a labour-intensive process that very few looms in Varanasi still practise. The payoff is a fabric with a gradient or colour-blocked effect that no printing or embroidery technique can replicate, since the colour transition is structurally woven into the cloth itself. Rangkat brocade is particularly striking in jackets, bandhgalas, and statement sherwanis where a single garment can showcase two complementary colour tones without needing separate panels stitched together. It photographs exceptionally well for festive and wedding collections, which makes it a favourite among designers building visually distinctive lookbooks. Because of its complexity, Rangkat brocade typically commands a premium over standard zari brocade, and genuine pieces are limited by the small number of artisans who still master this technique. At Choubey Silk, our Rangkat Brocade collection is sourced directly from specialised Varanasi looms, ensuring buyers get an authentic, technically accurate weave rather than a printed imitation increasingly common in the wider market. Internal link suggestions: Rangkat Brocade Fabric page, Sartan Brocade Silk page